November/December 2002 Newsletter - collectiblejewels.com

A Nice Warm Welcome from "COLLECTIBLE JEWELS NEWSLETTER".
November 2002 Newsletter - collectiblejewels.com
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IN THIS ISSUE
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=> Jewelry History - Decorative Techniques of Old Jewelry - Part II
=> Jewelry History - Clothing, Hair and Jewelry
=> Smashed With Memories...
=> You Need One Of These
=> Holiday Sale
=> Sites of Interest
=> Personal Tidbits
=> Subscribe/Unsubscribe information

Jewelry History - Decorative Techniques of Old Jewelry - Part II


Stamping I went over Repoussé in my last newsletter; here is an example of Repoussé craftsmanship on this watch dated 1768. In summary, it is pushing the metal into shape by punching the metal from the back using steel punches and hammer with a pitch as a cushion. When both sides are manipulated in this fashion, it's called Chasing. Due to the cost and time consuming method of Repoussé there came about the production technique which involved stamping the metal into shape between a steel punch and a die. The result of this method often confuses people into thinking it is Repoussé. Indications of stamping is the very crisp detail, often on the back as well as the front, and the use of thin sheet of an even thickness. The quality of stamping likes in the artistic merit of the design and with the skill of the craftsman which had to make the dies. An example would be a steel punch can be engraved with a design and used to stamp a repeated pattern on to the metal. Stamping is not necessarily the mass produced technique that the name would suggest. Engraving is probably the most widely used method of applying a design or decoration to a metal surface. Though the method is ancient in origin, it is dependent on the engraving tools called gravers. They are like a short chisel fitted to a small rounded handle which nestles in the palm of the hand. It is held at a shallow angle to the surface of the metal, the graver is pushed forward so that it digs a tiny groove. Liken it to calligraphy - each cut of the graving tool is like a stroke of the pen.		Filigree This is a delicate method of making jewelry and it demands patience and excellent soldering skills. Filigree is made using very fine wire which is doubled over, twisted together and then rolled flat and it is used on edge, scrolled and curved into delicate patterns which are inside an outer framework. Granulation This is a decorative technique in which tiny beads are fused on to a surface without the use of solder. Granulation is something I tried in jewelry class as well. I made tiny beads from my old 14kt gold BROKEN jewelry that couldn't be repaired. You know, figaro chains and the like. So I filled a crucible with these pieces of gold mixed with charcoal powder. It was heated to the point that that the gold melted and due to surface tension formed into perfect little spheres or balls. These are then arranged in a design and affixed to the surface to be decorated. A perfect example of granulation at it's finest is Etruscan work from the 16th century BC. Below is a typical example of Victorian England's desire for Etruscan Jewelry. Cut Steel Jewelry and buckles made of faceted steel studs that were riveted into a baseplate forming various patterns. This jewelry was popular from about the 1760's until the late 19th century. The faceting took on the appearance of rose cut diamonds that were also popular at the time. Marcasites are similar in appearance to cut steel.

Stamping
I went over Repoussé in my last newsletter; here is an example of Repoussé craftsmanship on this watch dated 1768. In summary, it is pushing the metal into shape by punching the metal from the back using steel punches and hammer with a pitch as a cushion.
1768 Repousse Watch

When both sides are manipulated in this fashion, it's called Chasing.

Due to the cost and time consuming method of Repoussé there came about the production technique which involved stamping the metal into shape between a steel punch and a die. The result of this method often confuses people into thinking it is Repoussé. Indications of stamping is the very crisp detail, often on the back as well as the front, and the use of thin sheet of an even thickness. The quality of stamping likes in the artistic merit of the design and with the skill of the craftsman which had to make the dies. An example would be a steel punch can be engraved with a design and used to stamp a repeated pattern on to the metal. Stamping is not necessarily the mass produced technique that the name would suggest. Engraving is probably the most widely used method of applying a design or decoration to a metal surface. Though the method is ancient in origin, it is dependent on the engraving tools called gravers. They are like a short chisel fitted to a small rounded handle which nestles in the palm of the hand. It is held at a shallow angle to the surface of the metal, the graver is pushed forward so that it digs a tiny groove. Liken it to calligraphy - each cut of the graving tool is like a stroke of the pen.
Engraved Victorian Perfume Bottle

Filigree
This is a delicate method of making jewelry and it demands patience and excellent soldering skills. Filigree is made using very fine wire which is doubled over, twisted together and then rolled flat and it is used on edge, scrolled and curved into delicate patterns which are inside an outer framework.
An example of Filigree Work

Granulation
This is a decorative technique in which tiny beads are fused on to a surface without the use of solder. Granulation is something I tried in jewelry class as well. I made tiny beads from my old 14kt gold BROKEN jewelry that couldn't be repaired. You know, figaro chains and the like. So I filled a crucible with these pieces of gold mixed with charcoal powder. It was heated to the point that that the gold melted and due to surface tension formed into perfect little spheres or balls. These are then arranged in a design and affixed to the surface to be decorated. A perfect example of granulation at it's finest is Etruscan work from the 16th century BC. Below is a typical example of Victorian England's desire for Etruscan Jewelry.
Victorian Etruscan Brooch

Cut Steel
Jewelry and buckles made of faceted steel studs that were riveted into a baseplate forming various patterns. This jewelry was popular from about the 1760's until the late 19th century. The faceting took on the appearance of rose cut diamonds that were also popular at the time. Marcasites are similar in appearance to cut steel.
Cut Steel Butterfly Buckle

Jewelry History - Clothing, Hair and Jewelry


The largest part of jewelry of sentiment was devoted to mourning. A Victorian matron often had to spend several years in full or half mourning, and many times mourning had to be worn by the ladies of the Court. Of course the jet industry at Whitby flourished throughout the century producing brooches, necklaces, earrings and bracelets in vast numbers. Often times the mourning period would end after the prescribed period and so the memory of the departed was enshrined in either a brooch, ring or locket. This type of jewelry was made with space within them for a lock of hair. As it is now, it was then as well; fashion in jewelry was dictated by what was fashionable in hairdressing and clothing. Interest shifted from one part of the body to another and so what was popular to wear shifted as well.		Example: In the late 1830's attention was drawn to the head and neck so the chignon was built up in fancy shapes and pierced by arrows and daggers. The open necks of the dresses revealed small lockets or decorative necklets. The flat broad shoulders allowed plenty of space for long earrings. Clothing in the 1840's went in the opposite direction - nearly all of the body was covered during the day and there were no open necks for necklaces and the ears were covered either by hair or by close fitting bonnets - earrings went out of fashion. Rather large brooches were often worn with pendants as if to make up for the lack of other jewels. The hand was 'in' so therefore rings were fashionable and large bracelets with pendants. In the 1850's clothes were rich and elegant. It was a prosperous and optimistic decade and it brought back many forms of adornment that hadn't been worn in years. Adorning the hair with a diadem complimented the hair, which rose slightly from its center parting creating a perfect setting. Earrings were worn again but they were generally small ones. Large brooches were generally pinned at the throat area during the day and in the evening elaborate necklaces were worn. Hey, let's look at the 60's. What comes to mind? LEGS! We wore mini's... weren't anklets popular too? If you sit and reflect upon your own generation, I'm sure you'll see the impact that clothing, hair and jewelry have upon one another.

Smashed With Memories...


Does a piece of jewelry you own bring back memories of a special moment in your life?		I'm sure you can answer that with a smiling face and a "yes" and so can I. When I was about 4 years old, my grandmother lived with us. She was blind and had a seeing eye dog that went everywhere with us. I can remember that day vividly back in 1959 probably because I have the earring to associate with it. I used to sneak into my gram's room and go through her jewelry box and play dress up. Well, on this particular day, I did just that. I remember my gram calling for me to get ready to go downtown by bus. We walked to the bus stop with Elsie, her seeing eye dog and stood there waiting for it to arrive. The people around that were also waiting were laughing and telling my gram 'cute' I looked. Remember, she was blind and had no clue what was so cute! My gram was holding my hand as we stepped up to get on the bus when I wrenched away from her to grab the rhinestone earring that had fallen off my ear dropped to the pavement behind us. As I went to grab it I was swooped up by a stranger. A car ran over the earring as I cried hysterically. My poor old gram had no clue what had happened. I had on her favorite rhinestone earrings, her eye shadow, her lipstick, and powder which was conveyed to her by the person who snatched me off the pavement. Gram was aghast and we had to proceed to her doctors appointment with one earring in my hand all smashed and one still dangling from my ear and lipstick in every direction around my mouth but not on my lips. Gram didn't think I was so cute... I was scolded. I never forgot that day and still have my gram's run over earring but have since lost the good one. That little earring was smashed with memories of her and my childhood. Send me one of your memories and I'll post in the newsletter. I'd love to hear what special moments you have experienced and the jewelry that went with them!

You Need One Of These...


		By the looks of this I think I just might BECOME mosquito proof! This 1884 ad caught my attention. Imagine if they had the threat of West Nile Virus back then? It's almost akin to the gas mask sales that have risen recently. Sure, we all should have one, right? I thought it funny how they went out of their way to say No Discomfort. I wonder how long they stayed in business?

collectiblejewels.com SALE!


CLICK HERE - collectiblejewels.com SHORTCUT: NEW ITEMS PAGE ONLY (no frames) -- For a Quick Look Categories include: Coro, Estate, 1960's, Marvella, Symmetalic and more! This above URL is a list of the great new additions to the website. As you will see, I've changed the format to make it easier to peruse. Now instead of clicking on the small pictures...just click on the CATEGORY and you'll go to the page with that new item and it's detail and price. REMEMBER! First Class SHIPPING IS FREE IN THE U.S.! For a limited time only!!! FREE SHIPPING ENDS JAN. 1, 2003 SAVE $$$ Postage Goes UP UP UP! If you've ordered from me in the past, you know I ALWAYS add a surprise to every order! Please VISIT: Cele's Jewels for wonderful GIFT IDEAS! Handmade jewelry at REASONABLE prices! Most made from Vintage beads and findings by an 80 year old NJ woman! She also makes wonderful little girl jewelry, mother and daughter matching sets which would make terrific gifts! Keep looking... I'll be updating almost daily for the next few weeks! Cele has been VERY VERY busy making gorgeous pieces and I've been so busy I've not had time to post them...but I'm working on it now! There are now two pages... and I'm still going!		JEWELRY NEWSLETTER MEMBERS ONLY!!! 20% OFF (Not Handmade Items) Until Dec 20th. Need gift ideas for young girls? Please visit Jewelry Just Like Mommy...this is jewelry made by Cele especially for little girls and young ladies. There are even mother and daughter sets. I'll be updating this as often as possible before the holidays as well.

CLICK HERE - collectiblejewels.com

SHORTCUT: NEW ITEMS PAGE ONLY
(no frames) -- For a Quick Look
Categories include: Coro, Estate, 1960's, Marvella, Symmetalic and more!

This above URL is a list of the great new additions to the website. As you will see, I've changed the format to make it easier to peruse. Now instead of clicking on the small pictures...just click on the CATEGORY and you'll go to the page with that new item and it's detail and price.

REMEMBER!
First Class SHIPPING IS FREE IN THE U.S.! For a limited time only!!!
FREE SHIPPING ENDS JAN. 1, 2003
SAVE $$$ Postage Goes UP UP UP!

If you've ordered from me in the past, you know I ALWAYS add a surprise to every order!

Please VISIT:
Cele's Jewels for wonderful GIFT IDEAS! Handmade jewelry at REASONABLE prices! Most made from Vintage beads and findings by an 80 year old NJ woman! She also makes wonderful little girl jewelry, mother and daughter matching sets which would make terrific gifts! Keep looking... I'll be updating almost daily for the next few weeks! Cele has been VERY VERY busy making gorgeous pieces and I've been so busy I've not had time to post them...but I'm working on it now! There are now two pages... and I'm still going!

JEWELRY NEWSLETTER MEMBERS ONLY!!!
20% OFF (Not Handmade Items) Until Dec 20th.

Need gift ideas for young girls? Please visit Jewelry Just Like Mommy...this is jewelry made by Cele especially for little girls and young ladies. There are even mother and daughter sets. I'll be updating this as often as possible before the holidays as well.

Sites of Interest


One of my favorite sites is Maloney's Online. Their site reads, "MaloneysOnline is a clearinghouse for hard-to-find information not only about antiques and collectibles, but also about art, gems & jewelry, dinnerware/flatware/crystal matching services, contemporary collectibles and, basically, resources for any type of personal property including race cars, machinery & equipment, and even airplanes!" "MaloneysOnline also provides public awareness resources which disseminate information about recognizing fakes & reproductions, recovering stolen art, and protecting our nation's endangered species and heritage resources including Native American cultural artifacts and archaeological sites." LOVE CHRISTMAS JEWELRY? Well, this site offers the nicest costume jewelry Holiday & Christmas pins I've seen! Grandma's Top Drawer. Grandma's Holiday Goodies is where you'll find rhinestone Trees, Candles, Snowmen, Sleighs, you name it. Her prices are reasonable and you'll enjoy the sparkling variety of pins she has! These are always a fun wear! Spread the holiday cheer and buy one for a co-worker or friend!		I had for sale an item that I had researched endlessly and came up with nothing. My description read: Old Carved Coin of a sailing ship... if you flip it vertical you see that there was a man's head on the other side of the coin; possibly a President. I've researched this for quite awhile and came up with nothing. I'd love to know what coin this was! I've no idea how old it is. Well, of course a sweet gal came along and bought it AND told me what it was so I figured I'd share the knowledge with you. K.R. Wrote: I did some research on this coin and found out it is a commemorative coin from the Chicago Worlds Fair in 1893. The ship is the Santa Maria, and the face is of Christopher Columbus. Here is a link if you would like to read about the coin: http://www.commem.com/prod08colexpo.htm

Personal Tidbits


I just want to take this opportunity to wish you and your family a truly wonderful holiday season. I also want to thank all of my wonderful customers for their kinds words and wonderful orders. I appreciate you! Thanksgiving is the beginning of chaos for most of us - running here and there, buying gifts, getting together with friends and family on top of what we normally have to do. Please don't forget that I will gift wrap for you any item you purchase at collectiblejewels.com OR I'll give you the gift wrap to do it yourself. I also offer foiled boxes with holly which are quite nice. Ring buyers will be receiving a Teddy Bear ring box that is so cute! One of my customers recently received one and wrote me to thank me since she thought it was cute too. I can also mail your package for your to anyone on your gift list... at postage COST. I am still offering free shipping on all orders in the US going to one address - only until January 1, 2003. Recently I had the pleasure of receiving an order from Great Britain. The Uncle wanted to buy his 14 year old niece a few 1970's and thoroughly American jewelry items for Christmas. He had asked about shipping costs and I told him it should only be about 5.00. He mentioned he wanted to package gift wrapped and would like it to fit an American image - possibly a 70's image! We then chatted back and forth and I decided to add a few 1970's extras to the package. Heck, I grew up in the 1970's and had a bunch of things I knew a 14 year old girl would get a kick out of. I even had cut out newspaper lists of the top ten songs in certain years during the 1970! By the time I was finished adding and wrapping (two packages had a USA made Stuffed Doll attached to them as opposed to a bow... I used ribbon and tied them on and the one package before it was wrapped was an oval colorful paper mache box from the 1970s ) the total weight was like 4 lbs.! When I calculated the costs it was a whopping $19.35 to ship. I felt funny asking this man to put out more money even though I had given so freely, so I asked if he would mind splitting the shipping costs with me. Like the gentleman he is, he wrote back to charge him full price for all I've done. He was thus far, very thrilled with what I had done for him. I can smile now because I feel his 14 year old niece will think he is the greatest Uncle in the world when she opens that package this Christmas. I put some American heart into it! So my point is, take me up on the offer of gift wrap or special request packaging. You can feel assured I will do my best to please! As for this newsletter, I truly apologize I can't produce it monthly any longer as I had originally planned. There are just not enough hours in the day! So at best, you can expect to hear from me every other month with the newsletter and if I plan a special sale in between, you might just receive a short note from me. I put a lot of time and research into my newsletters as you can plainly see and I'd rather take the time and do it right then just throw something out there.

I just want to take this opportunity to wish you and your family a truly wonderful holiday season. I also want to thank all of my wonderful customers for their kinds words and wonderful orders. I appreciate you!

Thanksgiving is the beginning of chaos for most of us - running here and there, buying gifts, getting together with friends and family on top of what we normally have to do. Please don't forget that I will gift wrap for you any item you purchase at collectiblejewels.com OR I'll give you the gift wrap to do it yourself. I also offer foiled boxes with holly which are quite nice. Ring buyers will be receiving a Teddy Bear ring box that is so cute! One of my customers recently received one and wrote me to thank me since she thought it was cute too. I can also mail your package for your to anyone on your gift list... at postage COST. I am still offering free shipping on all orders in the US going to one address - only until January 1, 2003.

Recently I had the pleasure of receiving an order from Great Britain. The Uncle wanted to buy his 14 year old niece a few 1970's and thoroughly American jewelry items for Christmas. He had asked about shipping costs and I told him it should only be about 5.00. He mentioned he wanted to package gift wrapped and would like it to fit an American image - possibly a 70's image! We then chatted back and forth and I decided to add a few 1970's extras to the package. Heck, I grew up in the 1970's and had a bunch of things I knew a 14 year old girl would get a kick out of. I even had cut out newspaper lists of the top ten songs in certain years during the 1970! By the time I was finished adding and wrapping (two packages had a USA made Stuffed Doll attached to them as opposed to a bow... I used ribbon and tied them on and the one package before it was wrapped was an oval colorful paper mache box from the 1970s ) the total weight was like 4 lbs.! When I calculated the costs it was a whopping $19.35 to ship. I felt funny asking this man to put out more money even though I had given so freely, so I asked if he would mind splitting the shipping costs with me. Like the gentleman he is, he wrote back to charge him full price for all I've done. He was thus far, very thrilled with what I had done for him. I can smile now because I feel his 14 year old niece will think he is the greatest Uncle in the world when she opens that package this Christmas. I put some American heart into it! So my point is, take me up on the offer of gift wrap or special request packaging. You can feel assured I will do my best to please!

As for this newsletter, I truly apologize I can't produce it monthly any longer as I had originally planned. There are just not enough hours in the day! So at best, you can expect to hear from me every other month with the newsletter and if I plan a special sale in between, you might just receive a short note from me. I put a lot of time and research into my newsletters as you can plainly see and I'd rather take the time and do it right then just throw something out there.

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If you would rather not receive future newsletters from collectiblejewels.com, please send an email to REMOVE-@-collectiblejewels.com (remove the spaces and dashes when emailing) and I will remove your name from my e-mail jewelry member list.

Call toll-free 800-529-3242 #29 to place credit card orders ONLY!

Copyright Information
COLLECTIBLE JEWELS NEWSLETTER
© Copyright 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002
All rights reserved.