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A Nice Warm Welcome from "COLLECTIBLE JEWELS NEWSLETTER".
August 2002 Newsletter - collectiblejewels.com
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IN THIS ISSUE
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ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ
 
=> Jewelry History - The Craftsmanship of Victorian Jewelry - Part I
=> Jewelry History - Decorative Techniques of Old Jewelry - Part I
=> Victorian Jewelry Tidbits
=> What Is This? Year  1891 - Be the 1st to guess and win a prize!
=> Goodbye Sizzling Summer Sale
=> Sites of Interest
=> Personal Tidbits
=> Subscribe/Unsubscribe information

Jewelry History - The Craftsmanship of Victorian Jewelry - Part 1

This issue is going to focus on the craftsmanship of jewelry so as to encourage you to look more closely at your pieces for the evidence of fine skills and design. If you have a knowledge of the skills used to make the jewelry it will lead you to a greater appreciation of its beauty and aid you in dating Antique Jewelry.

Early Catches and Hinges
Let's start with Catches and Hinges. Sometimes you can detect the age of a piece by the catch/hinge. However, keep in mind that over the years these may have been replaced, leaving you to find other ways of dating your piece. The "C" catch is the earliest type and following that in about 1895 a safety type catch was used for a brief period of time. Sort of like the third catch you see from the right in the picture. Around the 1920's the present day type safety catch caught on even though a safety catch had been used by some since about 1912. The Trombone clasp is primarily found on European jewelry from the 1940's though it was very popular back in the 1890's as well. The clasp alone will not date a piece as you will see. As far as the hinges go... there are basically two types that are prominent in costume jewelry - the ball hinge (c 1890), which has variations; with one type you grip the pin by tightening the sides of the hinge as in the second example from the right in the picture shown. Another note: Better quality jewelry brooches usually had a small loop at the back for attaching a safety chain. On many pins I've come across, there has been the loop or even an O ring... but the safety chain was missing. These often broke over the years and weren't replaced. The tube hinge as shown in the photo is the earlier hinge - pre 1890's.

Holloware Victorian BroochBrooches during the Victorian era were often formed as a hollow structure known as holloware. This was done partly to reduce the cost but also to reduce the weight - heavy brooches cause damage to delicate fabrics and tend to sag on the material. When you feel a piece of holloware you are aware of it's light weight, however, you might also notice the presence of tiny breather holes in the back - this allowed soldering to be carried out when the when the piece was being made. The problem with holloware is that is was very often made using very thin metal so it was easily dented and crushed. Very few pieces survived in mint condition. Also there was a tendency for the metal to tear around the stress points of the hinge and latch. This type of damage is difficult to repair. Tearing around the stress points
Note stress points on the back of the brooch.

Victorian Chains

Victorian Chains Example 1
For much of the 19th century chain were made by hand-working skills. Because of the work involved, craftsmen avoided very fine links and chains were designed carefully in order to reduce the time making them. This is understandable. I myself tried my hand at silversmithing and very well know how much work can go into a single piece, yet alone a bunch of chain links! So these craftsman used their ingenuity and made longer links. Made sense. Some of the chains were made from hundreds of tiny stampings which needed no soldering.
More on Antique Chains...
Victorian Chains Pic 1
As you can see in this pic, there are three chains above (the left three) that are machine stamped and connected with O rings.

The Graduated Curb Chain is typical example of labor intensive chainmaking. The Loop-In-Loop chain is of ancient origin and there are many clever variations on this simple basic idea. The advantage was that each loop could be soldered before being assembled, thus preventing the problem of accidentally soldering a number of links together.
Victorian Chains Pic 2

Watch Chains
The watch chain served the practical function of allowing the watch to be taken from the pocket and retained securely while being used. The Albert Chain was a long chain which was secured at the center to one of the buttonholes of the waistcoat and hung in curves to pockets on each side. (SEE BELOW)

Albert Watch Chain
Ladies Rolled Plate Victoria Chains
c 1892 Variety of Ladies' Rolled Plate Victoria Chains

Rolled Plate Dicken Vest Chains

Jewelry History - Decorative Techniques of Old Jewelry - Part I
Repoussé
Repoussé is a method of imparting a raised design or pattern to a flat sheet of metal by punching the forms in from the back. The metal is supported on a block of pitch (sometimes made of wood) which provides a cushion for the forming of areas which have to be raised by the carefully using a series of punches with rounded tips. Since not all of the detailed work can be done this way the metal is turned over and the finer details of the design are punched in from the front, once again with the pitch supporting the metal. The use of steel punches this way is called Chasing. Repoussé is a time consuming task and was mostly used on the larger, more valuable pieces in Western Jewelry.
Repousse Example
An example of the Repoussé Technique

Next Issue of this newsletter will cover Stampings, Engraving, Engine Turning, etc.

Victorian Jewelry Tidbits
Interest in 19th c jewelry is growing these days. Could it be because we're in a new millennium now and the jewelry seems older to us? Those Victorian days are getting away from us... and sooner or later the jewelry from that era will be harder and harder to obtain.

During the 1930's it wasn't very popular and thought to be in shocking taste. With the passage of time, the jewelry begins to look more and more antique and has found favor again. During World War II it was impossible to buy new jewelry and this turned the attention of many women to second-hand shops where to their astonishment they found beautiful Victorian brooches, bracelets and rings.

One sad consequence of this renewed popularity of Victorian era jewelry has been that inferior imitations are cropping up everywhere, and the collector has to distinguish between the genuine and the fake. The more you look at genuine Antique jewelry, the more you'll be able to recognize the imitiations.

During Victoria's reign which was about 60 years, everyone wore jewelry following the example of the Queen. They wore more jewelry than we do today - especially on their heads. One look in an old Godey's Magazine will show you the various ways the women wore their hair up and adorned it with jewelry.

There are many objects that aren't exactly considered jewelry but are very collectible. Buckles and clasps, links and studs, châtelaines, jewelled belts, fan holders, bouquet holders and lorgnettes.

The Victorian era was a time of quick changing fashions and you can see the changes in the appearance of the jewelry from decade to decade. There are three main periods that stand out in the transition of the jewelry; The Early Victorian or Romantic Period (1837 - 1860); The mid-Victorian or Grand Period (1860-1885) and lastly7 the The Late Victorian or Aesthetic Period (1885 - 1901).

The fads of the Victorian were no different than ours today. There was novelty jewelry that went quickly in and out of fashion. In the 1860's flies under crystal were popular; in the 1870's earrings in the shapes of hammers, tongs or ladders; and in the 1880's Locomotives were worn.

Another thing I noticed is that young children today don't wear jewelry as they did in the 19th century. I've come across some beautiful little bracelets, lockets and rings that you don't see our children wearing. I often wonder how the children from that era kept the rings on their little fingers or the bracelets from being plucked off!

One last thing on the subject of Victorian jewelry that might interest you. Miniatures were much used as clasps for bracelets or as centers of brooches. The Queen liked to wear a bracelet which was made up of linked miniatures of all her children, and the bridesmaids of Princess Alexandra gave her a bracelet containing miniatures, on her marriage to the Prince of Wales. Towards the end of the 1800's it became fashionable for couples to exhange miniatures. The girl's portrait, framed in pearls, was worn by the man, attached to his watch-chain. The man's miniatures, framed in diamonds and pearls, was worn as a locket by the girl.

Hallmark Database - Click Here

What IS This? Year: 1891
Can you guess what this is?So can you guess what this is? Don't go by appearances! Do you think this is JUST a Bracelet? Think AGAIN!

OK... think on this for awhile...
[ CLICK HERE TO EMAIL ME ] what you think it is other than just a bracelet... and if you're the first person to guess it correctly, I'll send you the gift below with a surprise inside!
I'll post the answer and winner's name in next month's issue of the collectiblejewels.com Jewelry Newsletter.
Millennium Time Capsule Keepsake Ornament by Hallmark One of the prizes for the correct answer of WHAT IS THIS?

collectiblejewels.com GOODBYE SIZZLING SUMMER SALE!
CLICK HERE - collectiblejewels.com

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This above URL is a list of the great new additions to the website. As you will see, I've changed the format to make it easier to peruse. Now instead of clicking on the small pictures...just click on the CATEGORY and you'll go to the page with that new item and it's detail and price.

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Sites of Interest
The British Crown Jewels Exhibition (in Replica)
When you first arrive at the site, click on the gate. The site is in German and English. The British Crown Jewels (in replica) are the major attraction of a British heritage exhibition took place in the historic Gallery Building at Herrenhausen Royal Gardens, Hannover (Germany) from 14 April to 11 May 1997. The exhibition was the largest of its kind ever presented in Europe. The collection contains replicas of all the existing historic crown jewels and regalia the originals of which, according to a 600 year old law, must never leave the country and can therefore only be seen at the Tower of London. (The Scottish Crown Jewels are kept at Edinburgh Castle, the Welsh in Cardiff.)
I was browsing around the net and found a site that featured a small amount of Novelty Jewelry from the Victorian Period. I was BLOWN away when I came across a pin that was similar to one that I have. C. 1885 London Bridge Brooch - Celluloid in gilded base metal. I had no idea the pin that I have could be that old! Here is a link to the brooch that I have and as you can see the style is the same but the scene is quite different. The site notes that in 1872 the Celluloid Novelty Company was established. Unfortunately, this site is difficult on the eyes. The designer has a purple background and black print... it's a shame because the info is great!

Personal Tidbits
She was upset...she didn't have anymore beads to put on!Nikki is talking more and more each day. The other day I took her to an outlet store called Maidenform in search of a bra. She ran in to the stoor and ran up to the display of bra's and said HAT! I tried to explain to her they were not hats. When I wasn't looking she picked one off the hanger and placed it on her head. I looked down to see her and she said HAT! Later that evening she came up to me with her Barbie Doll and pointed to it's boobs and said HAT! BIG GRIN!
I've been keeping VERY busy with Nicole and have no time for myself. I have just made the decision recently to return to jewelry smithing classes. I'm so excited! One night a week I'll get to work with the silver, copper, brass and gold. I attended a class in the past but the teacher dropped out and we were left hanging, as was my project. I had designed a huge leaf in sterling with a matte finish and I melted down some old broken gold jewelry and made a little man out of it. Again with a matte finish. I was to the point of soldering the small man onto the leaf when the class ended. (The pin represented my love and respect for nature and how man is small in nature's eyes). I was so sad when the classes ceased. All I need is one class with their torch and I'll have the pin finished. I need to do the pin arm and catch. That's the HARD part! I'll start in October... I can't WAIT!

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